London Calling...
(I am not still on London time. I am on Person whose Medication has Knocked her on her Ass Time. Another story....)
I'll try not to bore you guys with a full tilt narrative and all the damn photos (link will be provided for the truly curious or bored at work). This may not even be chronologically correct, it being 5 in the morning and all.
First off, don't let Burns's self-deprecating British wit fool you (see
here). He was quite the tour guide and a great friend to hang around with, especially (which he is too much of a gentleman to mention) when I was occasionally feeling like crap and had to take it down a notch in my type-A tourist behavior and slow down, grab a cab, crash out at the hotel, or whatever. But he totally knows, and loves, this town, for real.
And I take great delight in completely corrupting him with the likes of "Cracked Out" (which really needed to be turned down on the train ride out of London!), sharing "Killgore" on DVD and happily deconstructing British improv (Yes, sweetheart, that IS pimping!)
And those moments of "Fucking hell, where are we" led to some moments of great discovery and enjoyment for me. Like, laughing at the bitchy bus conductor and getting to ride a real double-decker bus (For about ten seconds, mind you). Or window-browsing lots of tony antiquey-shops in Knightsbride near Harrods, and taking lots of ridiculous photos of rows of charming as hell brick townhouses that I could definitely live in. With the occasional "Lord So and So lived here, 1768" plaques on them.
For you see, New York, I have become completely smitten with another city....And I never thought that would happen. Fallen head over heels. I'm sure given more opportunities, I'd see the warts, the flaws, but all I want to do now is fly back and get more, explore it and get to know it and hold it close.
And even though I'm beating myself up for what I missed, I did get to see and do a fair amount. And had a hell of a good time doing it.
Hotel rooms are so tiny! Usually I take a photo, but there wasn't room for the flash to go off (Ba dum bum.) But I did snap the tube stop in Kensington.
The V&A museum was wonderful, I really loved it since I love decorative-arts stuff. Here's the Dale Chihuly chandelier at the entrance:
Harrods was fun and they let me in with jeans. Browsed the handbags section, jewelry. Got some goodies at the Food Court, which is amazing, including figs as big as your head. Looked at weird fruit from around the world (which I later snapped up in the supermarket, along with fudge-flavored yogurt. I so love this country. Fudge isn't chocolate by the way, it's more like dulce de leche. Love, love, love).
Piccadilly Circus has a little bit of the Times Square about it, but just a little. London will never let itself be completely consumed with americana, despite the fast-food incursions and billboards. Not when the streets tell you which way to cross, the tube trains are freaking upholstered and contain signs sternly warning you to be polite, and....hell, I just can't explain it. It's just different, resolutely so, and has been for hundreds of years before we were just a pile of trees and rocks. Anyway, inarticulate attempt to make a point will stop here. Look at the pretty pictures.
Can you believe how awesome the weather is? Where's the fucking rain?!
Got half-price tickets for Jerry Springer: The Opera at the Leicester Square ticket booth near Piccadilly. Had the Worst Pizza Ever for lunch. Explained patiently to Burns what a salad was in our country. (My homage to Pizza Month. And really the only shit meal I had in London.)
Saw Big Ben, and Parliament and Westminster Abbey from the outside (again, my bad for not reading the damn tourbook more closely). Even so....for a non-traveling American, the sense of history still knocks you over pretty damn hard. Took lots of photos of the amazingly intricate stonework and such. And the one lone protestor. Sorry, buddy.
Grabbed a boat up the Thames. Yes, touristy. But I fucking love boat rides, so there. Passed by the mega-ferris wheel London Eye, and saw lots of London from the water - the Tower Bridge and the Tower, Saatchi Gallery, assorted other rail bridges, and had the droniest tour guide in the world. The tip solicitation went unheeded and we took the train back.
A shot from the boat that didn't involve a random tourist's head, Well just a small one:
Went to Greenwich - home of zero degrees longitude. Pretty little town - Royal Observatory, park, pubs, bookstores, flea-market with crafty stuff and incredibly dire candy (that I could've sworn I took home with me but can't locate. Ahem.) Here's the Cutty Sark, docked there:
The skyscrapers visible from Canary Wharf (did I remember that right?) were a big surprise to Burns, as very "un-London."
Soho Chinese was fabulous. Burns made me take this geeky photo of him because of the "Werewolves of London" song (What a tourist! Ha!):
Not that red wine and crispy duck don't make me happy too:
(Oh yeah, didn't we see the roving camera crew in Chinatown too? Or was that just the guy who commented on how fabulous I was?)
I've got no photos of the Comedy Store or the Jerry Springer musical, because that's just lame. People love to snack in the theater in London, I've noticed, unlike here.
The Comedy Store was amazing, by the way. Lots of these guys were on "Whose Line" but this show was outstanding. Smart, funny players all around. Kind of had an "Assscat" Sunday-night feel to it, really. First half was all short-form stuff, second half was an improvised musical. Pricey but totally worth it. They've got a similar theater setup to the UCB (thrust, damn pillars), they do improv, stand up and teach workshops, and are having their 25th anniversary year. And yeah, we were total improv geeks. I left with a poster to be framed (thanks!) I also spent a few minutes in the ladies room contemplating their next open mike night posted on the wall....
Meant to catch up on stuff Monday, to make up for being pretty zonked on Sunday. But alas, the forces of crime conspired to piss me off!
For fuck's sake I'm (a) a New Yorker (b) a cop's kid (c) an ex-prosecutor. How the fuck do I get MY bag carelessly lifted? By being a dumb ass, that's how. And the forces of good somehow watched over me, and sent me home with my bag intact that a lovely middle-aged man (wishing to remain not a witness) who stopped the theft mid-stream recovered for me.
Scene of the Crime:
Hit the British Museum. A lot like the Met....until you realize that these folks over here actually went out and conquered these places, scooped up the stuff, and kept it for their own! Imperialism Rocks! Checked out the Rosetta Stone, got some Christmas cards at the gift shop.
Does this man ever stop smoking?
Got the obligatory pub food - fish, chips, sausage. Not bad, although I plan to live a fine full life without HP sauce. Won 2 pounds in a pub slot machine.
Am definitely hooked on "London Pride" and pub shots of actual alcohol are totally weak. (The sushi-bar drinks were pretty nice, though. I'm sure it will all be on that documentary film of me.)
I know I've overlooked lots of stuff. I'm still coughing up cigarette smoke from the various pubs and bars we stopped in. I've left out lots of the typical touristy photos, I know. And a bunch of my photos didn't come out (curse that digital camera delay and unreliable memory card!) - Buckingham Palace at night from the cab, for example, was glorious.
And I missed lots of stuff that I wanted to see in London. And I'm sure I'll be back.
They're gearing up for Christmas already, trees and shiny gold and silver stuff and "plan your party at our pub" and I forgot to buy those Christmas-y mincemeat pies in Harrods that I wanted. Call me a crazy mixed-religion agnostic, but I just melt for all this English holiday crap. (I did get some picturesque cards, though.)
Oh wait - Ridiculously charming houses!! (I took loads of photos of buildings for no other reason than me swooning over them. Sigh....)
Oh wait - Taxis are cool, so very cool, by the way! Huge! Pricey but huge! The drivers have intercoms to chat with you, or not.
Oh - Ham and mustard crisps are way better than roast beef and mustard crisps. But I escaped without ingesting prawn crisps! Ha!
Randomness is now taking over, so I'm off.
Cheers, mate.